Pacman Frog Care Sheet

Pacman Frog Enclosure and Setup

Pacman frogs don't move much, so they don't need a big tank. Give at least a 10- to 20-gallon habitat that is wider than it is tall, with a tight-fitting screened lid to stop escapes and keep air moving ^[1]. Merck adds that amphibian enclosures need good ventilation and secure, ventilated tops ^[2].

• About 3 to 4 inches of substrate for adults. Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss hold moisture and let the frog burrow; leaf litter on top looks natural ^[1].
• Skip reptile carpet, artificial turf, gravel and rocks. They scratch delicate skin, and swallowed gravel can cause a fatal blockage ^[1].
• A shallow, open water bowl big enough to soak in, with plants such as pothos around it for cover ^[1].
• One frog per enclosure. Pacman frogs are territorial and may eat each other, and never mix species ^[1].
• Use chlorine- and chloramine-free water and never distilled water, because amphibian skin absorbs what is in the water ^[1][2].

Pacman Frog Temperature

Keep the habitat at 75 to 83°F during the day and 70 to 75°F at night ^[1]. Merck warns that amphibians kept outside their preferred range can become immunosuppressed and pick up infections ^[2].

Heat with a low-watt incandescent bulb, an under-tank heating pad or a ceramic heat emitter, always on a thermostat. Never use hot rocks ^[1]. Check temperatures daily with two thermometers, one in the warm area and one in the cool area ^[1].

Pacman Frog Humidity and Water

Keep humidity at 70 to 80% and check it with a hygrometer ^[1]. Mist the substrate with dechlorinated water at least once a day so it stays damp but not wet ^[1]. Too much moisture grows mold and bacteria that cause skin and breathing infections; too little dries the frog out ^[1].

Clean, disinfect and refill the water bowl every day ^[1].

Lighting and UVB

Use a low-level (2.0 or 5.0) UVB bulb for 10 to 12 hours a day, on a day and night timer ^[1]. Merck says UVB lighting is required to prevent metabolic bone disease in amphibians, and bulbs should be replaced every 6 to 8 months or as the manufacturer directs, even if they still light up ^[2][3]. Glass blocks UVB, so don't shine it through glass ^[3]. At night, turn lights off or use a nocturnal or infrared light ^[1].

What to Feed and How Often

Feed a variety of gut-loaded insects and worms: crickets, Dubia roaches and earthworms are good staples ^[1]. Mealworms and waxworms are high in fat, so treat them as an occasional treat ^[1]. Adults can also have a frozen-thawed rodent every other week, never a live one and never microwaved ^[1]. Always feed with tongs; Pacman frogs bite ^[1]. Banded crickets are naturally resistant to the cricket virus that wiped out many house-cricket farms, and ours are virus-free and parasite-free. We use a special high-quality cricket feed and have a state-of-the-art watering system.

The size rule: prey no bigger than the width of your frog's head. When in doubt, size down ^[5].

Sizes from our frog feeding guide and Dubia size chart. Large is the biggest cricket we suggest for adult Pacman frogs. Pacman frogs overeat easily, so offer a few insects per meal rather than a big pile ^[5]. Dubia roaches can't ship to Florida. Ask a veterinarian who treats amphibians about your frog.

Mealworms from CCF are coming soon.

Gut-Loading and Dusting

• Gut-load insects for at least 24 to 72 hours before dusting and feeding them ^[1]. See what do crickets eat.
• PetMD advises a calcium supplement with vitamin D daily and a multivitamin made for amphibians once a week ^[1].
• Merck notes amphibians can't make their own carotenoids, so they need a vitamin A source in their supplements ^[3].

Handling and Shedding

Pacman frogs are best watched, not held. They bite, and human skin oils and soaps can harm their skin. If you must move one, wear powder-free gloves wet with dechlorinated water, and wash your hands before and after, since frogs can carry Salmonella ^[1].

Healthy frogs shed in one piece and usually eat the old skin. Skin that looks thick and dull can mean humidity is too low ^[1].

When to See a Vet

• Dry skin, skin sores or redness on the legs and belly ^[1].
• Cloudy, swollen or bulging eyes, or eye or nose discharge ^[1].
• Not eating, weight loss or lethargy ^[1].
• Discharge or blood from the mouth, or bent or broken toes ^[1].

Book a wellness check once a year ^[1]. Find a vet through the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians ^[4].