Tarantula Care Sheet
Theraphosidae
The Chilean rose and Mexican red-knee are the most common pet tarantulas, and a board-certified zoo medicine veterinarian calls them pretty easy keepers that still need real care [1]. Males may live about 10 years and females past 30 [1]. Here is the enclosure, temperature, feeding and molting routine, with every number sourced.
Download the printable care sheet (PDF)Tarantula Quick Facts
- Common pet species
- Chilean rose and Mexican red-knee [1]
- Experience level
- Pretty easy keepers [1]
- Lifespan
- Males up to about 10 years; females past 30 [1]
- Enclosure
- 20-gallon aquarium or larger [1]
- Lid
- Tight-fitting, locking screen top [1]
- Temperature
- 70 to 85°F for most tarantulas [1]
- Humidity
- Our vet source gives no humidity figure [1]
- Heat
- Ceramic, under-tank or room heater; no light-emitting heat [1]
- Water
- Shallow dish, refilled daily [1]
- Feeding
- A few times a week; remove uneaten prey after about 10 minutes [1]
Tarantula Enclosure and Setup
House your tarantula in a 20-gallon aquarium or larger, in a quiet spot that isn't too bright [1]. Many tarantulas can climb glass, so use a tight-fitting, locking screen top [1]. Give it room to walk around and behave normally [1].
- At least one hide, such as a flower pot on its side or a reptile hide [1].
- A soft, absorbent substrate such as coconut coir; some species lay a thin web over it [1].
- A few rocks for climbing, arranged so the spider can't fall and the rocks can't fall on it [1].
- A low water dish, refilled daily. Deep dishes can drown a tarantula [1].
Tarantula Temperature
Most tarantulas do well between 70°F and 85°F [1].
| Item | Target |
|---|---|
| Enclosure temperature | 70 to 85°F [1] |
| Humidity | No figure given by our vet source [1] |
Ceramic heaters, under-tank heaters or a whole-room heater work best [1]. Keep a thermometer in the tank so it doesn't get too hot [1].
Lighting and Humidity
Tarantulas shy away from light, so the heat source should not give off light, and the tank should sit somewhere that isn't too bright [1]. Our veterinary source does not give a humidity number, so we don't list one. Ask an exotics veterinarian about humidity for your species.
What to Feed and How Often
Tarantulas need live food. Gut-loaded crickets, Dubia roaches, mealworms, silkworms and hornworms are easy choices [1]. Feeding a few times a week is enough [1]. Banded crickets are our default for active prey, and Dubia suit ground-level feeding because they don't jump [2]. Banded crickets are naturally resistant to the cricket virus that wiped out many house-cricket farms, and ours are virus-free and parasite-free.
The size rule: pick manageable prey. Use your spider's body length (not its leg span) as the limit, and size down when unsure [2].
| CCF feeder | Length [3][4] | For a tarantula body at least |
|---|---|---|
| Pinheads (3 to 7 days) | 1/16" | 1/16" |
| Pinheads (7 to 14+ days) | 1/8" | 1/8" |
| Small cricket | 1/4 to 3/8" | 3/8" |
| Medium cricket | 1/2" | 1/2" |
| Large cricket | 3/4" | 3/4" |
| Jumbo cricket | 3/4 to 1"+ | 1" |
| Dubia Small | About 3/8" | 3/8" |
| Dubia Medium | About 1/2 to 3/4" | 3/4" |
| Dubia Large | About 1" | 1" |
Body-length limit from our tarantula feeding guide, matched to our feeder lengths. Offer 1 feeder at a time [2]. Don't drop in several crickets to last the week; hungry prey can bite and injure the spider. Remove whatever it doesn't eat within about 10 minutes [1]. Tiny spiderlings can take small pre-killed prey [2].
Mealworms from CCF are coming soon.
Molting
Before a molt, tarantulas often stop eating for a while. That is a normal fast [1]. During the molt the spider lies on its back and doesn't move, which can last from 15 minutes to a full day. Don't move it, and keep live feeders out of the enclosure [1][2]. Afterward you'll find a complete empty exoskeleton [1].
When to See a Vet
- Less appetite with white material around the mouthparts, a sign of oral nematodes [1].
- Trouble during a molt [1].
Captive-hatched tarantulas are less likely to have oral nematodes [1]. Ask a local exotics veterinarian about care, and remember that lying on its back during a molt is normal [1].
Tarantula Care FAQ
How do you take care of a tarantula?
Use a 20-gallon or larger tank with a locking screen top, a hide, soft substrate such as coconut coir, 70 to 85°F, a shallow water dish refilled daily, and live insects a few times a week [1].
What temperature does a tarantula need?
Most tarantulas do well between 70°F and 85°F, with heat that doesn't give off light [1].
What humidity does a tarantula need?
Our veterinary source does not give a humidity number, so ask an exotics veterinarian about your species.
How often should I feed my tarantula?
A few times a week, removing anything it doesn't eat within about 10 minutes [1].
What size crickets for a tarantula?
Pick prey no longer than your spider's body, not counting legs, and size down when unsure [2]. Use the size table on this page.
Is my tarantula dead or molting?
A tarantula lying on its back and not moving is usually molting. It can take 15 minutes to a full day; don't move it [1].
Can I leave crickets in with my tarantula?
No. Hungry crickets can bite and injure a tarantula, especially during a molt. Remove uneaten prey [1][2].
Feeding a tarantula?
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Sources
- University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine, When Your Pet Has Eight Legs (Krista Keller, DVM, DACZM)
- Carolina Cricket Farm, Best Feeder Insects for Tarantulas (feeding guide)
- Carolina Cricket Farm, Live Crickets product page (cricket sizes)
- Carolina Cricket Farm, Live Dubia Roaches product page (Dubia sizes)
This care sheet is general information, not veterinary advice. The Merck Veterinary Manual has no tarantula husbandry chapter, so sources are the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine and the other sources listed above, plus our MVTL Laboratories cricket analysis. Ask a veterinarian who treats exotic animals about your animal. Last updated: November 2026.